Girl power in the plant world
As a chef, running a catering business in Bristol, I love travelling for inspiration for new recipes. I’ve recently returned from a trip to Malaysia where I tasted some delicious street food, plant-based dishes and experienced some new and exciting flavours, as well as broadening my mind: lots to be gleaned: about food, culture, myself … both good and bad, that’s the beauty of travel, it can shock and delight in equal measure but it is never boring.
PLANT-BASED GIRL POWER
One of the places I visited was a Chinese owned nutmeg farm where I learnt a lot of interesting facts about this underrated spice, and myself. I don’t really consider myself a raving feminist but I was surprised at how strongly I felt when I saw women in Malaysia completely covered from head to toe – even in the swimming pool! Enter the nutmeg: Basically, nutmeg is all about girl power and superiority, which quite frankly, is refreshing in a country where some women still enter their own house via a back door to the kitchen while the resident male has his own entrance at the front. I digress.
Nutmeg trees are both male and female, the female has one seed, the male has two, naturally. A nutmeg tree takes 5 years to flower and only then do you know if it is male or female. But here is the best part: the female tree is superior because it produces better fruit than the male. And it gets even better: females are self-perpetuating and don’t need males – amazing.
The fruit itself is so unpleasant and bitter when raw that no monkeys or insects will eat them, so all nutmeg can be declared organic.
HOW TO COOK WITH NUTMEG
There are three parts, and they are all used differently: the fruit of nutmeg is pickled by soaking it in brine then sugar syrup and it is delicious. Juice is also made from the fruit; the red mace which surrounds the nutmeg itself and this is dried for use in soups and tea for various ailments inc. flatulence; finally, the oil is used to help with arthritis, aches and pains, and a balm is made and used for headaches, insect bites, rather like tiger balm.
While Malaysians use ground nutmeg in curries, the Chinese don’t grate nutmeg, instead, they add it whole to soups for long cooking with an intense depth of flavour.
As a child, I always remember the rice pudding with milk, nutmeg and generous knobs of butter that my father used to bake in a slow oven every Sunday evening – the ultimate comfort food. One of my favourite uses for nutmeg is in an omelette with mushrooms sautéed with lots of butter and crème fraîche.
VEGAN RECIPE IDEA – PUMPKIN RENDANG
Click here for a recipe for pumpkin rendang – a vegan take on a classic, where the nutmeg adds a gentle and reassuring warmth of spice.
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Tara is an award-winning chef and author, who started out in top restaurant kitchens in Bristol before setting up her own business in 2010. She is a Judge at The Taste of the West Awards, and in her private life, Tara is an avid cook, fermenter and eater and loves teaching others how to do the same! Tara published her first book, 10 Years of Food Fads, in 2020 to celebrate 10 years of business.